Buffalo Rising Online

Jun 10th 2005, 9:19pm By buffalorising

As you walk toward the entrance of the Century Grill, three limestone columns immediately catch your eye. These three giants and the inscription "Ancient Landmarks"adorn the restaurant's facade announcing the building's former duty as a Masonic temple. You will not need to pass through a temple to your dining destination, yet you will immediately feel connected to an ambiance reflecting Buffalo's rich history.

The Century Grill's proprietors are Otis and Mary Beth Bartlett of Allentown. Otis's ten years experience in the restaurant business and Mary Beth's expertise in the kitchen make them a perfect culinary pair. They'll celebrate the Century Grill's second anniversary on May 13, 2005. The proximity of the Hyatt Regency and the Buffalo Convention Center promise plenty of business. Lunches during the week are always busy, and the Century Grill's reputation for serving orders promptly is well known.

"Spacious, yet warm and inviting"come to mind to describe my initial impression of the restaurant with its 20-plus-foot-high ceilings and multi-level floor plan. The wainscoted walls alternate with softly painted areas, currently displaying the art of Rene Dietrich along with retro neon fixtures and antique beer trays. Up a few steps to the left of the entrance, the massive bar runs the length of the restaurant. The generously spaced tables in the center of the Century Grill form a long row. To the right, solid cherry booths offer exceptional privacy with backs high enough to completely divide one booth from the next. Above the booths, a balcony provides extra seating and great views of the bar below.

A pair of vintage beer coolers stands guard at the bar - vestiges of the 1980s when the Macaroni Company occupied the Century Grill's current space. The Lafayette Tap Room was temporarily located here before returning to its original Washington Street location. The building's second floor, once used by the Freemasons in the 1900s, includes a large auditorium and smaller meeting room. The Masonic Temple closed in the late 1970s due to declining membership. Mary Beth tells me that Otis's friends the Goo Goo Dolls are rehearsing for their next CD in this private upper space. The street front "Century"sign was part of the Century Theater's original marquee - once situated at the corner of Main and Mohawk streets. The sign was purchased at auction and stored until the Bartletts engaged the original Buffalo manufacturer, Flexlume, to restore it.

The Century Grill prides itself on serving beer brewed by local breweries and features a traditional American menu complete with homemade food and generous portions. Some favorites include Mary Beth's Grilled Meatloaf Dinner and Spicy Chili. I enjoyed the perfectly prepared Grilled Salmon, served with a splash of a subtly flavored sesame barbecue sauce, mixed vegetables, and rice with corn and red pepper. The Century Grill's dessert specialties include a flourless chocolate cake, peanut butter mousse cake, and the popular seasonal strawberry shortcake.

Enjoy a taste of Buffalo's rich historical and architectural tradition and a delightful meal in this landmark restaurant.

The Century Grill | 320 Pearl Street Mon - Fri 11am - 11pm, Sat & Sun 5 - 11pm 716.853.6322 call for reservations www.thecenturygrill.com