Buffalo Rising Online

Jul 31st 2006, 7:06pm By Christa Glennie Seychew

Mussels are an offering from the sea that is often overlooked. They are vastly popular in Europe, but as Americans, we tend to prefer clams and oysters. They are rich in protein, and contain essential minerals, vitamins B12 and C, and Omega-3 fatty acids. Simple to prepare and quite inexpensive (less than $3.00 per lb.), they can be steamed, fried, baked or smoked. They often share the pot with other shellfish in dishes like Bouillabaisse and Paella.

I recently spent some time with Jim Guarino, chef and owner of Shango on Main Street. Jim is a fascinating man filled with passion for food and Buffalo. During the summer season, he offers his weekend guests a mussel dish. The recipe that Jim prepared for me, and has kindly shared with us here, is special. Special because not only is it quick, easy and utterly delicious, but it boasts some of Buffalo's best flavors.

No, there isn't any Frank's Red Hot or bleu cheese dressing here. Although wings and beef on weck are a beautiful thing, we too often buy into the concept that these are the only flavors that define Buffalo.

Jim's mussels are steamed in Flying Bison's Barnstormer Pale Ale along with Spar's handmade andouille sausage and a few other simple ingredients. Are you kidding me? This dish was amazing. The fragrance was completely intoxicating. My favorite thing about mussels, which is particularly true in this recipe, is that they lend well to the essence of the ingredients that accompany them while successfully maintaining their textural integrity and subtle flavor. These mussels were so tender and the sausage added a perfect amount of spice to all of that marvelous broth, which, I should mention, is sopped up with fresh, crusty bread from Luigi's.

"As an owner and a chef, I want to be able to put a face to a product," Jim explained. "I pour this beer and I see Tim Herzog from Flying Bison, I use our great andouille sausage and I think about my friends at Spar's. When I buy something, I don't want to buy into a product, I want to buy into a person." During the summer, Jim grows his herbs and tomatoes behind the restaurant. The green onions in today's dish were harvested just before I arrived. "It's great to be able to pick and serve things. You know exactly how and where that herb was grown and how long ago it was picked. I know that I'm giving my customer a meal I believe in."

Shango is a beautiful restaurant with a lovely menu and a well-comprised wine list. It can be found at 3260 Main Street. Reservations can be made by calling 837-2326.

Spar's European Sausage Shop offers a fabulous variety of artisan sausage and meat. It is located at 405 Amherst Street.

The Flying Bison Brewery is located at 491 Ontario Street; its many fine beers can be purchased at the brewery and at a variety of other locations, including Consumer's Beverage and Premier.

A few hints for those of you unfamiliar with mussels. They should be alive when you buy them. Don't be nervous about de-bearding a mussel, they generally come like that. Ask your fish monger if you have any questions. If the shell of the mussel is not tightly closed, tap on it. If it closes, it's ready for the pot. If not, it and any others that are open should be discarded; this goes for any mussels that have a broken shell as well. After you've finished cooking them, if you happen to have one or two that do not open, those should also be removed. If you buy mussels and do not want to use them right away, don't leave them in a bag. Place them in a bowl in your refrigerator covered with a paper towel and make sure to use them within a day or two.

Shango's Steamed Mussels with Spar's Andouille Sausage & Flying Bison Barnstormer Pale Ale

1 tbsp. olive oil
1 tbsp. butter
1 tsp. minced garlic
1/2 cup Flying Bison Barnstormer Pale Ale
1 link Spar's Smoked Andouille Sausage
2 lbs. cleaned and de-bearded mussels
Cajun spice and chopped green onion for garnish
Luigi's French Bread

In a saute pan, heat olive oil and butter. Add garlic and cook until fragrant. Pour in beer and sausage, and cook for 1 minute. Add the mussels to the pan and cover. Allow the dish to steam for a minute or two. Occasionally lift the lid and check; once the mussels are open, they're done. Remove the pan from the heat, shake and pour the mussels into a large bowl. Garnish with Cajun spice, chopped green onions and serve with French bread.