Buffalo Rising Online

May 15th, 10:26am By Michael Franco

Growing up on Buffalo’s West Side, I fondly remember the building at 1085 Niagara Street as the Italian restaurant, Darone’s Fargo Grill. Darone’s has always held a special place in my heart because it was one of the restaurants my parents and grandparents would take me and my brothers for a great family meal.

In 1988, Marco Sciortino purchased the building from Andy and Joe Darone. Since then, Marco has been the owner and chef of Marco’s Restaurant, and has started his own tradition of serving fresh, high quality food in his friendly, neighborhood restaurant. Marco’s is the kind of place you go when you want to relax with family and friends and enjoy consistently great food. Speaking of family, Marco’s sister Dana is a server at the restaurant and their mother, also named Dana, is a server in addition to holding the title of dessert chef. But we’ll delve into that a little bit more in a minute.

In March 2008, Buffalo Rising featured a story called “Marco and the Big Cheese”. It detailed Marco’s partnership with Buffalo-based Sorrento Lactalis. Sorrento has chosen Marco to represent their fine products nationally on the new cable program, Kitchen Spaces. To see Marco in his segment on Kitchen Spaces, click here.

On a recent Friday night a friend and I dined at Marco’s and had yet another great meal. Once seated, we were presented with the wine list, which offers wines from Italy and a few selections from California. Marco is also proud to offer “Uncork New York”, a separate wine list consisting of New York State wines that he has carefully selected as a complement to the dishes on his menu. A selection of beer is available by the bottle and on tap.

The menu begins with Antipasti; two of my favorites are the Fried Calamari ($8) and Stuffed Hot Peppers ($8). Zuppa (or the soup course), lists soups made fresh daily like Marco’s delicious, traditional Pasta Fagioli ($4.50). The salads offered include an Antipasto--a mix of meats, cheese, artichokes, olives and tomatoes served over salad greens--the size of which is so generous it will easily feed four ($7). The entrees featured are Italian family favorites, each made with care. Pasta dishes range from a very simple and satisfying Pasta with Oil and Garlic, to Marco’s signature Ravioli Napoleon, a wonderful dish made from ravioli layered with cheese, spinach and eggplant, and baked with tomato sauce. Breaded Chicken or Veal Cutlet entrees are available, and may also be ordered in one of the more classic preparations: Parmigiana, Carciofi, Piccata, Marsala or Florentine. Beef entrees include Steak Tuscany ($14), a classic grilled filet (10 oz., $17), a Merlot Filet ($18) and a Beef Cutlet ($17).

Regarding the evening specials, you will find dishes which have a slightly up-scale air, showcasing Marco’s creative talents. And, on Fridays, in addition to the standard menu, Marco offers fish entrees that may be ordered either broiled or baked, in addition to a fish fry, that is--in my estimation--one of the best in the city.

To begin our meal we ordered one of Marco’s pizzas. With every intention of taking most of the pizza home for lunch the next day, we enjoyed the Bakery Style Pizza ($10). Comprised of a simple, sweet sauce and a topping of classic Romano cheese, this delicious pizza is the type of pie you would have found at any of the many bakeries that once dotted the streets of the West Side. In Buffalo, we are known for our myriad pizzerias, and every Buffalonian feels strongly that their favorite pizza is the best. I most certainly have my own favorites, each of them a favorite for a different reason, but this Bakery Style pizza is special, being made with only three ingredients--a great crust, a sweet delicious tomato sauce, and a sprinkle of Romano cheese. It is really just perfect! Although it was not easy to resist eating the entire pizza, I brought most of it home because I had other fish to fry.

Seeing that it was Friday (and as tradition would have it here in Buffalo), I was craving a fish fry. As I stated earlier, I feel that Marco’s fish fry is one of the best in the city, so my choice was an easy one. This fish has a deep, golden brown beer batter crust that is both light and crispy. It is the perfect contrast to the moist and tender fish that lies within. I find it a total pleasure to eat. Served with coleslaw and a choice of french fries, macaroni or potato salad, or a side of pasta with tomato sauce, you can’t go wrong for $11. My choice of side dish was the pasta with tomato sauce. I have a pet peeve about pasta; if it’s overcooked, it’s a tragedy. No tragedies here. At Marco’s the pasta is always perfectly cooked, and I find that Marco’s tomato sauce is one of the finest I’ve had in any restaurant. That’s saying a lot because you know how Italians pride themselves on their own homemade tomato sauce, myself included.

My guest was tempted by one of the specials. The preparation of this dish began with a deep bowl of penne pasta tossed with tomato sauce and Sorrento ricotta cheese. It was then covered with mozzarella cheese and broiled until it was brown and bubbly. Before being served, it was topped with slices of grilled chicken breast. I have to say this dish was superb. The chicken was moist and tender, and had the great flavor imparted by a grill, a nice complement to the creaminess of the melted cheeses. This wonderful pasta dish and a very nice dinner salad were priced at $21.

Having our appetites satisfied (and being grateful that there were plenty of leftovers to take home), we were unable to eat dessert in the restaurant, but that didn't stop us from ordering two desserts to take home. As I mentioned earlier, Marco’s mother, Dana, makes all of the desserts for the restaurant, and she isn’t shy about offering something a bit different. I expected the Cassata Cake to be good, and it was. Three layers of a light sponge cake that are filled with sweetened ricotta cheese and accented with chocolate chips would have been a nice end to any meal. But the surprise was the Lemon Cream Layer Cake; a luscious two-layer lemon cake, with a filling of lemon cream, a frosting of lemon buttercream, and a garnish of flaked coconut. I found this cake to be moist and refreshing with a bright, lemony flavor.

Bambina’s (children 10 and under) have their own choices from the menu, and these selections are priced with smaller appetites in mind, at only $3-$4. So, if you are looking to enjoy an evening in a friendly neighborhood restaurant that serves great food, Marco’s is the place. Or if you want, call ahead for a couple of pizzas and an Antipasto to go. Marco’s entire menu is available for take out.



Marco’s Restaurant
1085 Niagara St., Buffalo 14213
716.882.5539