Buffalo Rising Online

Jun 10th 2005, 9:36pm By queenseyes

Located on an unassuming block of Connecticut Street, Lupita's Mexican Caf" could easily be missed. But once you enter, there is no mistaking the sense of welcome that radiates from the red and ochre d"cor, and from the smile of proprietor Lisa Luciano. The year-old restaurant reflects the importance Lisa places on family and tradition.

Lupita's is named after Lisa's grandmother. A bold mural (painted by artist-friend Erin Sharkey) depicts the view from Lupita's ranch in Mexico. A large cooler stands in the corner, filled with soft drinks in unexpected flavors like guava, coconut, and sangria. It's self-serve - not like a cafeteria, but like grabbing a drink out of mom's fridge. The stereo's soothing Country and Tejano melodies tempt you to settle in for a spell.

Most of the menu will seem familiar to customers acquainted with Mexican food, but the difference at Lupita's is in the details. Lisa prepares all of the fillings and sauces for her dishes herself. The sauce for her enchiladas is made with New Mexican chilies, which bring a complex bright flavor to a dish that is so often gringo-ized with muddily spiced tomato sauce. Lisa's version of Mexican rice is lightly fried so it retains its texture, contrasting nicely with her smooth refried beans. Try the quesadilla with chorizo: the combination of Monterey jack and cheddar cheeses with the spicy accent of chorizo makes a memorable mouthful.

While the menu also contains unusual items such as meat and vegetable empanadas, it's the chicken mol" and the menudo that really set Lupita's menu apart. Mol" is a Mexican regional specialty that is not often seen in the states. Lisa makes her mol" sauce with a combination of chilies, Mexican chocolate, orange, cinnamon, and nuts that is simmered for three hours, and then served over chicken with rice and tortillas. The complexity of the mol" comes from the subtle interplay between sweet, savory, and spicy flavors. Menudo is a traditional stew of tripe, pigs' feet, hominy, and chile sauce. Although this dish might sound daunting to a newcomer, Lisa's menudo (served only on Saturday) has been quite popular with the local Mexican community.

Lupita's is not only the result of Lisa's hard work, but also the efforts of local community organizations. Lisa began catering four years ago with support from the Massachusetts Avenue Project. The success of that business led her to pursue her dream of opening her own restaurant. The Connecticut Block Association was instrumental in helping Lisa situate her restaurant at its current location. It's a great thing when community building can taste this good.

Lupita's Mexican Caf" & Catering 397 Connecticut Street | 716.536.7119 Open: M & W 11:30am - 8pm | F & Sat 11:30am - 9pm Closed: Tuesday, Thursday & Sunday