Buffalo Rising Online

Mar 21st, 9:59am By Sandy Starks

Over the past few weeks we have featured the family run businesses at The Broadway Market--businesses that sell quality products at prices that won’t break the bank. This week I want to tell you about the places in The Market that serve up some of the best food in town—made with the hands and hearts of the owners of these fine businesses.

First up is Perisons Restaurant. Those of you that have visited The Market know about that nostalgic flank of retro counter and row of low chrome stools located in the rear of The Market. Owner, Helen Wybluski, was first introduced to this spot as a young girl when she sat on those stools, waiting for her mother to finish her shift as a cook for the original owner, Mrs. Perison. Helen would come after school and wait for her mom so that they could go home together. Little did she know that later in life this bustling place would be hers.

On a recent visit I stopped in for lunch to have one of Helen’s creations, a Polish Reuben ($5.50). Smoked Polish sausage is generously covered with sauerkraut and Swiss cheese on soft seeded rye bread and grilled to perfection. My husband opted for the Polish Platter, a combo plate that includes lazy pierogi, smoked Polish sausage, a huge stuffed cabbage roll and one cheese and one sauerkraut pierogi. This hearty meal stayed with him the whole day. Czarnina, kluski, potato pancakes and fried bologna with onions are available most of the time. The homey hand-scribbled “specials” board announces the daily fare.

Breakfast is popular too. Three egg omelets are served with toast and homefries starting at $5.50. All of the recipes are original, and the soups, salads and Polish specialties are made fresh daily. Jacob’s Café is also worthy of a stop for breakfast or lunch. Owner Rich Kraft offers up a daily menu and has food ready and hot to go from his steam table. Examples of weekly fare are breaded pork chop dinners ($5.99) on Tuesdays, a roasted half chicken dinner on Wednesdays ($5.19), or a typical fish fry on Fridays ($6.99). All come with a generous portion of side dishes.

Located near the front of The Market, Jacob’s Café (named after Rich’s son Jacob) has a large sub and sandwich selection. Soups, salads, wings and finger food fare are available to eat in the market and for take out. I had the Jacob Burger ($3.99) and was pleasantly surprised as the burger was not the typical flat frozen patty. It was obviously made fresh from ground beef purchased in the market and served with a good, crisp dill pickle spear and French fries. It was one of the tastiest burgers I have had in a long time. At this very moment, it is likely that Rich is making more stuffed cabbage to accommodate the lunch crowds that will arrive over this busy holiday weekend. “Last year we made over 2500 stuffed cabbage to serve during the Easter season; this year we should make close to 3000!” Rich said with a smile.

Rich is expanding his catering business and invites you to call to discuss food selections for your next party. He can create a menu to include a pig roast, BBQ, or local fare, with either a drop off or full service option. You can taste his good eats this Monday at the Central Terminal Dyngus Day festivities.
Last week's bakery post highlighted EM Chrusciki. But I failed to mention their Coffee Stop, a counter located at the foot of their retail area. Besides the fresh baked sweets that they have for sale, you can get pierogi, sausage, sandwiches and other Polish specialties. What caught my eye was the fact that they served crepes - cheese, apple, cherry, and meat.

Last, but not least, I have to tell you about McKenzie’s Soul Food Shack. I started to shop at McKenzie’s many years ago when they just sold meats. A favorite item that I still buy regularly is the sage sausage brought in weekly from Georgia. Sage sausage is a fresh pork sausage laced with fresh sage, black pepper and spices. It has a unique earthy taste and comes in both hot and mild. Alabama smoked sausage, rib bacon, ham shanks and Curtis red hots are readily available at the stand. As unique and delicious as their meat selection is, the take out food area has become the mainstay of their business. A few years back, owner Dorothy McKenzie answered the requests of her customers and started to cook some of the soul food specialties she is known for.

The steam table is filled daily with soul food delights, the most popular items being macaroni and cheese, fried chicken, greens and corn bread. You can frequently find spare ribs, ham hocks and meat loaf next to black-eyed peas and peach cobbler. All of the items are made fresh daily on the premises. Breakfasts feature ham and eggs with grits, corned beef hash and fresh biscuits.

Come hungry to The Market and take time to experience some good home cooking. You can also call any of the restaurants for take out. They will have your order ready and waiting for you.


Perisons
999 Broadway, Buffalo 14212
716.892.3661

Jacob’s Café
999 Broadway, Buffalo 14212
716.909.6469

EM Chrusciki
999 Broadway, Buffalo 14212
716.893.1464

McKenzie’s Soul Food Shack
999 Broadway, Buffalo 14212
716.897.4052


***In the weeks leading up to Easter, the Broadway Market has over 300,000 visitors who come home to the market to renew old friendships, relive family memories and traditions and buy some of the foods that will grace family tables during this special springtime holiday season.

This is the last post in this great series by Buffalo Rising contributor and Slow Food Buffalo founding member, Sandra Starks. Over the course of the last five weeks she's highlighted some of the vendors and the specialty products they offer. Each business is unique, but they all have some things in common-–a passion for the tradition of the market, a strong work ethic and pride in the products they produce and sell.

Other Broadway Market features from this series:
Broadway Seafood
Peter Lupas Meats
Broadway Market's Fresh Produce Stands
Dandy Candy and Sweets at The Market