I remember when sushi first came to Buffalo. Bob Rich flew Kuni “Sato” to Buffalo when he opened Sakes. It was my first sushi experience, and one that I will never, ever, forget. For years I followed Kuni and his sushi exploits. I clearly remember the day that he closed his sushi restaurant on Elmwood (today it’s Wasabi), in order to take a break and rethink his pursuits. Since then a number of sushi restaurants have come (and some have gone), including Seabar, which is still one of my favorites, although it can be tough to get a seat at the sushi bar. Seabar has great quality fish, interesting takes on minor fusion delights, but is usually packed to the gills. Also, because of the scene, it’s tough to know if you will ever be able to engage with a sushi chef, which, in my mind, is a critical element because sushi is not just a meal, it should be an experience.
As for Kuni, call me jaded, but there will never be anything like the original Kuni’s on Elmwood. Kuni was in his glory back in the day, engaging with customers, yucking it up, and presenting traditional sushi in a manner that put Buffalo on the sushi map. I spent many a night at Kuni’s, imbibing in whatever he was serving because it was all quality, and super tasty (as it still is today). Back then it was more about Kuni’s magical spell that he cast over Buffalo, set in a tiny restaurant, filled with diehard fans who felt as if they were part of some sort of pilgrimage. When Kuni closed on Elmwood, there was a line down the street to capture a lasting moment before the lights went out. To this day Kuni’s on Lexington is still a hot spot, frequented by regulars.
When it comes to sushi in the city of Buffalo, I have found myself craving something more. Along with great sushi, I have been on the pursuit for great sushi bar atmosphere. I find bits and pieces of this in my usual go-tos, Kuni’s and Seabar, but earlier this evening I made a decision to try something new. I had heard a few people talking about Wasabi on Elmwood recently, but I have to admit that the last time that I ate there was right around the time that it opened, and the experience had been “ok”. So I decided that I would check the place out again, by myself.
Walking into Wasabi brings back many memories of the old Kuni’s. The place is petite, but so are some of the best sushi joints in the world. I moseyed up to the bar and eyed what looked to be one of the drabbest and most unforgiving barstools on record. It was. After talking to the waitress, I learned that the sushi bar was not as much for sitting as it was for passing plates of food. Regardless, I opted to sit there, since it’s hard to learn anything about a sushi restaurant when seated at a table. The bar will tell you about cleanliness, the quality of the fish, the stripes of a chef, and telltale signs of the general operation of the place.
In the future, when eating at Wasabi, one would be better off sitting at a table on any given evening. Sitting at the bar is like eating at a wait station, next to the water pitcher, staring at rolls of paper towels, a box of tinfoil and a bamboo plant that needs a dusting. Other than the complete lack of appealing aesthetics, I ordered a hot sake (sorry, creature of habit), and opted for the omakase (chef’s selection) for $30. I asked my initial server, Leah, if the $30 selection (the minimum order for omakase) was a good choice, and she simply replied that it was the minimum. So I figured that I would roll the dice and stick with “the minimum”. While I waited, I attempted to interact with the sushi chef, to no avail. He spoke no English and I spoke no Japanese, which was fine as that is usually a sign of a great-yet-silent sushi experience. So I sipped my sake and looked around the room. Not much to look at, so I waited. I offered my sushi chef a cup of sake, but he graciously declined. When my platter arrived I was pleasantly surprised by the bounty of food. The minimum was actually a lot.
The sashimi (fish with no rice) looked to be fresh, and the presentation was superb. There were wedges of lemon and cuts of cucumber, which added zest and color to the plate. The nigiri (fish with rice) also looked great – the pieces were moist, the right amount of glistening oils, and an ample arrangement of fish varieties – even though I would have liked to talk to the chef about a couple of the pieces that were presented to me. The sashimi was portioned into sizes of small steaks, which honestly could have been shaved down just a bit. The cuts of sashimi were so big that I could barely eat them in one bite – not that I’m complaining, as a lot of times it’s hard to fill up on sashimi, but these were a tad over the top. Sashimi is typically sliced thinner, but chefs vary in their techniques. Thankfully the freshness of the fish was excellent, or it could have been tough to swallow. By the end of my meal I could barely eat the last piece – I was quite happy.
Overall observations are: The quality of the fish did Wasabi justice. Seeing that the place is called Wasabi, it would have been nice to get fresh wasabi served on the platter, instead of the wasabi paste (especially for an omakase). Also, I wasn’t a fan of the ginger (gari). There were a few sushi specials, which ended up on my plate, thankfully. My second server, Cheryl, was talkative and helped to guide me through the lackluster bar experience. The sushi bar could be the star of the operation, and a real money maker for Wasabi, but instead it’s an afterthought, which is unfortunate. The place would also benefit from some edgier music, and a bit of volume. Seeing that Wasabi is literally located at the epicenter of Elmwood, the place should be packed on a nightly basis. Last night it was about half full. That could easily be fixed with some atmospheric changes.
Wasabi | 752 Elmwood Avenue | Buffalo, New York 14222 | (716) 887-8388 | Facebook | Small patio