By: Nelson Starr
When I decided to write a column for this esteemed publication, it was
not without serious reservations. Wait, not “No Reservations” but,
instead, a big, fat “YES” to having major reservations. These reservations concern
sticking my neck out and commenting further on the often-controversial
Buffalo food scene. Although my “fan mail” post-Rustbelt Episode has easily had a ratio of 20 to 1 (positive to negative), there are always those few
disturbed, aggrieved, angry types who have nothing better to do than
hate on me for (supposedly) choosing to take one Anthony Bourdain to
Ulrich’s…or Schwabl’s…or Nietzsche’s over this or that other pet place
of theirs. (For the record, I had a list of joints a mile long and
they, the production company–and Tony himself–made the final
choices). Could I really put up with these people’s misanthropic
complaints again?
Oh, and the other predictable line of attack these ruminants get all
lathered up over mid-chew concerns my qualifications, “Who is this Nelson Starr guy? What does he know about _____ (fill in
the blank: food, music, Buffalo, etc.).” About the last thing on Earth
I’d ever want to do is to accidentally fan the flames already leaping
out of these folks’ ever-volatile drool buckets. Me doing a column? I
can already see the paint-peeled walls of these depraved critics’
bedrooms, taped up with Buffalo Rising clippings and psychotic
scribblings, much to the chagrin and concern of their parents (yes, they
still live with Mom and Dad and, by the way, work at McDonald’s).
But, *%$#, I do have a lot of “creative” ideas to offer up and
plenty of nit picky pet peeves of my own to complain about. The hated
as hater? Well, probably not. Maybe I just need to don some body armor
to brave my critics’ obvious projections of self-loathing, and then get
on with it already!
Heck, I reckon Buffalo needs me. Certainly, I’m the sane one here. It’d be a crime if I didn’t weigh-in. After all, I was on national
TV! I guess I’ll just have to ignore the comments section (below) and
forge ahead with “all the answers” because I, like all the rest of the
Buffalo bloggerati, know exactly–precisely–how to fix Buffalo. I’m
sure all it will take is just a little more ink (or a few more pixels) from a
highly-select crowd of my enlightened peers (but especially from me)!
Over the next several truly revelatory articles I write, I will
solve many of the foodie quandaries that have appeared
intractable–until now. Like, why a more upscale and decidedly trendy
restaurant like O was replaced by the likes of….Hucklebuckets. Or, like
why “my” Tops always stops (pun intended) carrying anything “good” that
they initially do carry (i.e. – kefir drinks, Tropicana Pure Valencia
orange juice, Coleman’s prepared mustard, and large-size Iams ProActive
Health Hairball Care cat food) and other critical issues du jour. Yes,
I’ll be cracking the code on these mysteries and many more.
In case you can’t tell that I’m spinning some looney, pain killer-induced canard here, I’ve been indeed pulling your gold chain all this
time (except the part about the haters; they really are dolts and
morons). But, as far as being able to issue any solid, unequivocal answers,
the best I can offer is probably a re-post from Michael Ruhlman or
Buffalo’s own man-about-town, Alan Bedenko. I admit it, I have many more questions than I have answers for, and other folks are sometimes
more informed than me.
What I think I may be able to best offer are some over-arching,
general observations and theorizing. Or a few anecdotes that, in their
particularity, do offer lessons of a more universal sort (that degree in
philosophy comes in handy here and there). I tend to be thoroughly
average at deconstructing things and analyzing their moving parts in
order to see what might be tweaked for the better. But my real talent (if I have any) is seeing the big, BIG picture–the consequence of so
many of those antecedents–and imagining what might be, what could or
should be on the table. Or, on that rare occasion where perfection
manifests, what simply is, and why.
Over the course of my short but eventful culinary journey, I’ve
encountered a list of gastronomic malfunctions or, shall I say,
under-performing culinary “concepts”, proudly proffered for public
consumption, that I intend to gently address or occasionally even rail
against. But more often than not, when justified, I plan to give voice
to what people are actually whispering in regard to this or that restaurant,
chef, and even more crucially, just plain bad (or good) ideas. And yes,
there are a lot of really talented, really smart, and really creative
artisans out there, doing wonderful, delicious–and sometimes even
new–things with ingredients. That’s what I’m most excited to explore
and share. I’m confident that you’re brave and honest enough to take
that journey with me.
So what will this walkabout actually look like? Well yes, I will do
some restaurant reviews and features on people and places you should
know about. I’m also going to write thematic pieces that look at
issues, trends, and all that jazz relating to food. Although I will
dutifully seek objectivity, I am sufficiently steeped in media theory to
know that such a goal is practically impossible. That being a given,
I’m going to embrace the subjective nature of this project and simply
give you my thoughts, impressions, and provisional judgments regarding
each matter at hand. And, yes, I might get it wrong on occasion.
All I can say is that, at the end of the day, you can be sure that
I’m tellin’ it like it is (or like I see it!) and that your time will
not be frittered away on some “everything was delicious” food
review/puff piece. My goal is to get at the heart of things, the
essential nature of the subject matter, without all the trappings and
adornment that often divert us from addressing our initial, underlying
question(s) and overall aesthetic values.
Sure, it’s what it’s always been about: What is good? What is
beautiful? What is the good life and how does one live it?. Yes, I’ll
be addressing that–if one even can?
——
Buffalo Music Hall of Fame-er and rocker Nelson Starr is known as
one of Buffalo’s most influential musicians, composers, and producers.
By bringing celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain to
Buffalo and developing his own hit food show, All Access Pass with
Nelson
Starr,
Nelson has dedicated himself to highlighting the region’s food finds.
From pub grub to haute cuisine, Nelson is game
to explore anything “that rocks” with his signature sarcasm
and egalitarian ethos.
Catch Nelson Starr’s appearance on No Reservations Friday, April 23rd on the Travel Channel.