Much has been written recently about the upcoming Buffalo Old Home Week. Through BOHW, weive met many irepats;i those who having once lived in Buffalo and moved away, are choosing to return and bring with them a unique energy and passionate love for our city.
Iive also met others who, although not able to relocate at this time, still are passionate about Buffalo. Iive begun thinking of them as iBuffalois Ambassadors.i
I was recently in NYC and had dinner with one such Ambassador, my wonderful friend Derek Larson. A friend of his joined us. The story below tells the tale.
Three Nights in Buffalo
By Leo Blackman
I reside in NYC and chose to celebrate my 50th birthday in Buffalo, a place Iid never been. Friends were skeptical, but I knew better. Iim an architect n and aware that the city of Buffalo is a treasure trove of great American buildings by Wright, Sullivan, Richardson and Saarinen. There is the Olmsted park system, the Roycroft colony in East Aurora, and the magnificent river-side grain elevators that inspired European modernism. Iid been on a grant review panel for the New York State Council on the Arts ten years earlier, which had awarded seed money to the Alleyway Theater and Darwin Martin House.
Why had I waited so long?
Well, a decade of not-so-subtle Buffalo-boosterism wore down my long-suffering spouse, and Ken presented me with 2 round trip Jet Blue tickets. We convinced our friends, Michael and Derek to accompany us. Derek, having lived in Buffalo long ago, knew a local reporter for Buffalo Rising, Joan Fedyszyn. She put us in touch with Sandy Starks, who works at the Roycroft, and also gives private architectural tours in WNY. A few hundred emails later, we had arranged an insanely over-scheduled 3-day weekend of sightseeing and eating. And since it was my birthday, the agenda tilted heavily towards buildings.
We arrived late on Thursday night, picked up the rental car, and checked into the Honu House/ Elmwood Village Inn. Its spacious rooms are crammed with local art. Friday morning we walked to CafE Aroma for coffee, then drove with Joan up to Niagara Falls. (Whatis with all the crappy mall/casino/hotel architecture? How about some respect for a natural wonder?) Joan had recommended the Cave of the Winds, so we dutifully donned the plastic slicker and rubber shoes, rode the elevator down, and followed our guide. When we turned the corner and approached the cascade, the ground shook and water engulfed us n really awe inspiring n and wet.
A terrific lunch was had at Bettyis; lots to see inside and out while we waited for our table. We then met Sandy for the downtown intensive architecture tour, beginning at Sullivanis orange terracotta masterpiece n the Guaranty building. Sandy knew Harry Meyer, a lawyer at the firm renovating the building, who graciously gave us the cookis tour n from mosaic encrusted lobby to swiveling porthole windows at the attic. The rest is kind of a blur n but definitely included the Ellicott Square Building, City Hall, Old Post Office, Market Arcade, and Sheais Theater. Spectacular all!
Why arenit there more people walking around?
We continued on a driving tour to see the site of the FLW Larkin Building (how could you?!!), and the just excavated head of the Erie Canal (likewise?!).
Dinner was at the Coda, across from Kleinhans Music Hall. The pork chops were amazing! We asked to meet the chef.
Saturday morning we walked to Spot Coffee for the incomparable breakfast burritos. We then drove to the Darwin Martin House for a 2 hour in-depth tour. It was very exciting to see progress in reconstructing the pergola, conservatory and barn. The light rain made one appreciate Wrightis big porches and deep overhanging eaves, especially the unusual gutters and downspouts. The interconnection between Wright, Larkin, Martin and Hubbard, who together shaped Buffalois history, was fascinating. I did wonder why Wright couldnit manage to accommodate Mrs. Martinis vision problems in the design. Architects!
We grabbed souvlakis at Panois on our way out to East Aurora to meet Sandy. She gave us the story of Elbert Hubbard and the Roycrofters, plus recent preservation efforts there. We visited some craft workshops, bought pottery by Janice Mc Duffie, toured the buildings, and best of all, got to have drinks with founder Kitty Turgeon. Kitty lives in the Fournier House, and has re-created art & crafts interiors that vividly evoke the movement. Later, we had dinner at the Roycroft Inn, in a high-ceilinged timbered room, lit by glorious leaded glass lanterns. The public spaces, with their original wainscot, murals and reproduction furnishings, should make every Western New Yorker proud of their inheritance n a unique moment in American visual arts.
Sunday we returned to Spot for breakfast, and noted how many folks apparently jogged there to buy pastries (a wise trade-off). We had arranged to meet Sandy and architectural historian Martin Wachadlo for a tour of the Grain Elevators. Sandy could not let us leave without seeing Forest Lawn Cemetery. We made a brief pilgrimage to the Blocher tomb, and heard the tabloid-like story of his demise. Then we drove over impressive steel truss and lift bridges to get close to the elevators. We began with the towering brick box of the Great Northern (currently held hostage by ADM). Martin outlined the movement of goods across the Great Lakes to Buffalo (source of its wealth) for transfer to Erie Canal barges. He enthused about the progression from wood to steel to clay-tile to concrete bins, and illustrated the process of unloading a ship using the mechanical towers and sea legs. We marveled at the vast scale of these structures, and worried what would become of them.
We stopped at Anchor Bar to experience their renowned wings. Once past the sullen hostess, we enjoyed their huge portions and wacky souvenirs. Then, off to see the HH Richardson-designed psychiatric hospital. We were dazzled by the colossal size and picturesque skyline of the grand stone complex, and hope it will be put to new use soon. Starting to worry about missing our return flight, we raced to see the Albright Knox Gallery and the Historical Society, bought souvenir books and plates in their commodious gift shops.
There was still so much we didnit get to see! Buffalo is stupendous; but I guess you knew that already. With an unbelievably good supply of landmark commercial/industrial buildings and housing from modest to mansions, swell food, the GREAT lake, nice people n Iim tempted to move.
Maybe the cost of oil will finally reverse the post-war trend and Americans will repopulate their rust-belt cities, though I doubt weire smart enough. Really, how could Phoenix compare? Especially in ten years, when their average temperature is 140 degrees! Florida will be underwater! People who chose Buffalo will be geniuses!
Iill be back soon!
Tours:
sstarks@adelphia.net